Trango Summit

Trango Tower Expedition: 

Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.

The east face of Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent.

The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, via "The Grand Voyage", a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians, and the only route ever completed up the 1,340m east-southeast headwall. These two climbs have been called "perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world.

The least difficult route on Great Trango is on the Northwest Face, and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is nonetheless a very serious, technical climb.

Trango ( Nameless) Tower

Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the British climber Joe Brown, along with Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. There are at least eight separate routes to the summit.

After several unsuccessful attempts, the second and third ascents were achieved in 1987, with the opening of two new routes: The Slovenian Route, better known as the Yugoslav Route, a pure, clean, logical crack route on the south-southeast face, by Slavko Cankar, Franc Knez (sl) and Bojan Šrot, and the Great Overhanging Dihedral Route, a spectacular and technical ascent on the western pillar, by Swiss/French team Michel "Tchouky" Fauquet, Patrick Delale, Michel Piola and Stephane Schaffter.

The first route that was freed (using fixed lines to return to a base each night), in 1988, was the Yugoslav Route by German team Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich and Hartmut Munchenbach.

Another notable route is Eternal Flame (named after a Bangles song), first climbed on 20 September 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Milan Sykora and Christoph Stiegler. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower, and was climbed almost entirely free. These climbs inaugurated an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude peaks.

The first female ascent, on 6 September 1990, was achieved in free climbing style, again on the Yugoslav Route, by Catherine Destivelle (with Jeff Lowe, and David Breashears filming).

1 1 Day, Arrive Islamabad 512m

Depart from your own destination, arriving Islamabad the next day and transfer to the hotel for a few hours’ sleep. After an early breakfast we return to the airport for the flight to Skardu, which usually departs mid-morning. Given good weather this is perhaps the most spectacular commercial flight in the world, with magnificent views of Nanga Parbat the ninth highest mountain in the world. The flight however will not operate in poor weather, and you must be prepared for a wait in Islamabad if the flight is cancelled

In case of cancellation of flight (13-14 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Or Drive to Chilas via the Babusar Pass 4173m. Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4.173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the ThakNala with Chilas on the Karakoram Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Complete road journey (10-11 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at junction of Indus River and the rapids and fall of Indus River.

Full day for official formalities and final preparation of Expedition at Skardu.

After a free day in Skardu, we travel by Jeep to Askole, the last village between us and K2, This journey takes about 7 hours and is on very rough narrow tracks often blocked / damaged by landslides.

We set off early to avoid the heat of the day. We follow the Braldu river valley through green pastures and after crossing the Biafo River we skirt around the base of the terminal moraines of the Glacier for lunch at Korophon. Beyond here a new path has been cut through the cliffs making the walk to camp straightforward. 7 to 8 hours walking.

We continue up the Braldo River, sometimes close to the raging water, sometimes taking a higher path used by pack animals. If the weather is clear we get our first glimpse of Broad Peak today. Despite the stories in old guide books and journals, much has been done in recent years to remove rubbish and human waste to leave a much cleaner environment with well managed camps.7 to 8 hours walking.

After breakfast our trek relay with mules and low porterts to Trango Base camp, from several walking under the last point of Baltoro Glacier, we reach and touch first glacier and trek toward to Trango which takes us 4hrs to approach  camping.   

After successful expedition we trek down to Bardumal 3300m, instead of stay Paju camp. 

After early breakfast we trek down to Jhola camp and  we take our light lunch and continue down to Askoli the last jeep road village.

 Drive by 4x4 jeep / Toyotas to reach Skardu city, after 1.5 hrs we reach to Apo Ali gond and take lunch and drive continue to Skardu for overnight if possible we will arrange final fare well dinner and very next day our flight for Islamabad.

Transfer to airport for flight to Islamabad if the flight operates otherwise drive (9 hours) to Chilas along the Karakorum Highway. Meals and overnight at hotel.

Free day in Islamabad or drive to Islamabad from Chilas for 12 hours.

Transfer to Islamabad international airport and onward to your own destination.

  • Both Way domestic flights between Islamabad – Skardu.
  • Both ways Air condition coaster / mini bus / car between Islamabad – Skardu.
  • 4x4 Jeep / Toyotas between Skardu – Askoli both ways.
  • Two nights in Islamabad 3*/4* Hotel accommodation with bed & breakfast.
  • Two nights in Chilas best standard Hotel accommodation with full board.
  • Three nights in Skardu best standard Hotel accommodation with full board.
  • Expedition Royalty and Climbing Permit.
  • Fully paid Government Liaison officer.
  • Documentation.
  • Visa facilitation letter.
  • Professional guide to transfer expedition to base camp.
  • way up 50kg to transfer at base camp for 6000-7000m Expedition.
  • Way down from base camp 25kg allow for 6000m-7000m Expedition.
  • Necessary base camp staff (base camp manager, Chief, Cook, and Assistance & Waiters.
  • Three meals a day and tea – coffee – snacks during the trek and base camp stays.
  • Solar panel / generator for light and battery charge at base camp.
  • Comfortable foam / mattress while trekking and base camp.
  • A north face tent provide as individual member at base camp.
  • Hot shower and toilet tents.
  • Comfortable chairs and table while trekking and base camp stays.
  • Complete camping setup with dinning & kitchen tents while trekking and base camp.
  • Imported and local foods during trekking and base camp stay.
  • Heating in dinning tent at base camp.
  • Medical first aid kit for group and staff.
  • Satellite phone for emergency calling at base camp.
  • Walkies talkie for base camp communication.
  • All camping and bridge crossing fee.
  • CKNP west management fee and Gondogoro La rescue fee.
  • Assistance for international tickets reconfirmation.
  • Farewell dinner will served in Skardu / Islamabad.
  • Bamboo Sticks for 6000m -7000m Expedition if require.
  • Transportation for sightseeing.
  • Air condition Transportation for Briefing & De-briefing in Alpine club of Pakistan / Ministry of Tourism.
  • All airports pick & Drops on arrival and departures.
  • Member international flight tickets.
  • Members any Climbing / trekking gears.
  • Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
  • Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature.
  • Staff tips, We recommend you to give small bonus for our local staff.
  • Mini bars while staying in hotels / travelling.
  • Member personal insurance.
  • Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipment)
  • Oxygen, Mask & regulator sets,
  • EPI Gas, Ropes, Ice screws, snow bar, cooking pots beyond base camp.
  • RECOMMENDATION:- We recommend our clients to deposit helicopter rescue aviation deposit in advance $5000/- the entire money is refundable if not use. In case any emergency happen on remote mountain range then we fly helicopter on time to save life.
  • TRAVEL INSURANCE:- It is a strongly recommend that while booking treks and tours with us that travelers/trekkers must be protected by insurance themselves that covers cancellation, accidents, health, emergency evacuation, and loss of items, or damage to baggage and personal effects.
Equipment List
  • Climbing Shoes
  • Cash Pad
  • Snacks
  • Chalk Bag & Chalk
  • Harness
  • Locking & Non Locking Carbiners
  • 10.5mm Ropes
  • Ropes Bag
  • Climbing Helmet
  • Belay Device
  • Mid Weight Fleece Jacket
  • Rain Jacket
  • Wind Proof Pants
  • Fleece Hat
  • Running Shoes / Light Hiking Boot
  • Water Bottle
  • Sun Block & Lip Balm
  • Sun Glass / Goggles
  • Energy Snakes