An Italian expedition finally succeeded in ascending to the summit of K2 via the Abruzzi Spur on 31 July 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio, and the two climbers who reached the summit were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. The team included a Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah, who had been a part of the 1953 American expedition. Also on the expedition were Walter Bonatti and Pakistani Hunza porter Amir Mehdi, who both proved vital to the expedition's success in that they carried oxygen tanks to 8,100 metres (26,600 ft) for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. The ascent is controversial because Lacedelli and Compagnoni established their camp at a higher elevation than originally agreed with Medhi and Bonatti. It being too dark to ascend or descend, Medhi and Bonatti were forced to overnight without shelter above 8,000 meters leaving the oxygen tanks behind as requested when they descended. Bonatti and Mehdi survived, but Mehdi was hospitalized for months and had to have his toes amputated because of frostbite. Efforts in the 1950s to suppress these facts to protect Lacedelli and Compagnoni's reputations as Italian national heroes were later brought to light. It was also revealed that the moving of the camp was deliberate, a move apparently made because Compagnoni feared being outshone by the younger Bonatti. Bonatti was given the blame for Medhi's hospitalization.
|1||Arrive Islamabad international airport and transfer to Hotel||HOTEL|
|2||Fly to Skardu via PK-451 ( In case weather not support Drive from Islamabad - Chilas||HOTEL|
|3||Skardu sightseeing ( Drive from Chilas - Skardu||HOTEL|
|4||Skardu briefing in Ministry of Tourism & final preparation of expedition with staff ||HOTEL|
|5||Drive from Skardu - Askoli||CAMPING|
|6||Trek from Askoli - Jhola||CAMPING|
|7||Trek from Jhola - Paju||CAMPING|
|8||Paju Rest and Acclimatization day ||CAMPING|
|9||Trek from Paju - Urdukas||CAMPING|
|10||Trek from Urdukas - Goro II||CAMPING|
|11||Trek from Goro II - Concordia||CAMPING|
|12||Trek from concordia - K2 Base camp||CAMPING|
|13||CLIMBING PERIOD (38 DAYS).||CAMPING|
|52||Trek down K2 base camp - Goro II||CAMPING|
|53||Trek down from Goro II - Khobursay ||CAMPING|
|54||Trek down from Khobursay - Bardumal||CAMPING|
|55||Trek down from Bardumal - Askoli||CAMPING|
|56||Drive from Askoli - Skardu||HOTEL|
|57||Skardu de-briefing & final farewell dinner||HOTEL|
|58||Fly to Islamabad via PK452 ( or Drive from Skardu - Chilas (flight subject to weather)||HOTEL|
|59||Islamabad sightseeing or Drive from Chilas - Islamabad ||HOTEL|
|60||Fly out to your own destination (END OF OUR SERVICES)||FLY OUT|
1. All Airport pick and drop
2. Both ways air fare between Islamabad – Skardu – Islamabad.
3. Transportation briefing, debriefing and sightseeing.
4. Transportation between Skardu – Askoli – Hushe - Skardu
5. Three nights’ Accommodation, twin bed room in Islamabad (bed & breakfast)
6. Three nights in Skardu Hotel with full board.
7. Two nights in Chilas Hotel with full board.
8. Local staff Wages, insurance, food and equipment.
9. Low porters to carry expedition and trekking equipment, foods.
10. Way up 75kg each climbing members.
11. Way down 50kg each climbing members.
12. All trekking and base camp foods.
13. Comfortable members tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, office tent, Shower tent, Toilet tent, table, chairs & kitchen utensils.
14. Assistance for Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.
15. All Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing fee.
16. Low Porters Equipment’s.
17. Documentation & climbing permit
18. CKNP west management fee
19. Royalty fee and additional member fee
20. Liaison officer Kit allowance, food, flight fare.
21. Electric Generator / Solar system at Base camp.
22. Heating system at base camp.
1. Member international flight tickets
2. Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not use, it is now US$15000/-
3. Members any climbing gears
4. Member personal insurance
5. High altitude tent
6. High altitude food
7. High altitude porter
8. Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
9. Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
10. Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipments)
11. EPI gas and oxygen cylinder
12. Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if members stay more days at Base Camp) then members will be pay according to the numbers of days basses.
13. Trekking members and climbing member will come together. If any/some member split during the period then there extra expenses will be charged according to normal price
K2 EXPEDITION EQUIPMENT LIST:
|1||DOWN SUITS||1 PIECE|
|2||SUMMIT SHOES ( CLIMBING BOOT)||1 PAIR|
|3||TREKKING SHOES (WALKING SHOES)||1 PAIR|
|4||SLEEPING BAG||1 PIECE|
|5||CRAMPONS ||1 PAIR|
|6||SUMMIT SNOW GOGGLES||1 PIECE|
|7||SUMMIT GLOVES||1 PAIR|
|8||NORMAL GLOVES||2 PAIR|
|9||SUN GLASS||2 PIECE|
|10||ICE AXE||1 SET|
|13||LOCKING CARBINEERS||2 PIECE|
|14||DOWN FILLED MATTRESS (AIR MATTRESS) ||1 PIECE|
|15||SUMMIT SOCKS||2 PAIRS|
|16||CLIMBING BAG 40 LTR||1 PIECE|
|17||HELMET ||1 PIECE|
|18||DOWN JACKET||1 PIECE|
|19||DOWN TROUSER ||1 PIECE|
|20||FIGURE OF 8 (DESCENDER)||1 PIECE|
|21||HEAD LAMP||1 PIECE|
|22||GORTEX JACKET||1 PIECE|
|23||GORTEX TROUSER||1 PIECE|
|24||WIND PROOF JACKET||1 PIECE|
|25||FLECE JACKET ||2 PIECE|
|26||FLECE TROUSER||1 PIECE|
|27||FLECE INNER GLOVES||1 PAIR|
|28||NON LOCKING CARABINEER||1 PIECE|
|29||WATER BOTTLE||1 PIECE|
|30||TAB SLING||1 PIECE|
|31||LIGHT TREKKING PANTS||2 PAIRS|
|32||NECK WARMERS ||2 PIECE|
|33||SUN PROTECT CREAM||1 PIECE|
|34||LIP GUARD||1 PIECE|
|35||DUFFEL BAGS||2 PIECE|