Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face.
The east face of Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent.
The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, via "The Grand Voyage", a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians, and the only route ever completed up the 1,340m east-southeast headwall. These two climbs have been called "perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world."
The least difficult route on Great Trango is on the Northwest Face, and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is nonetheless a very serious, technical climb.
Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the British climber Joe Brown, along with Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. There are at least eight separate routes to the summit.
After several unsuccessful attempts, the second and third ascents were achieved in 1987, with the opening of two new routes: The Slovenian Route, better known as the Yugoslav Route, a pure, clean, logical crack route on the south-southeast face, by Slavko Cankar, Franc Knez (sl) and Bojan Šrot, and the Great Overhanging Dihedral Route, a spectacular and technical ascent on the western pillar, by Swiss/French team Michel "Tchouky" Fauquet, Patrick Delale, Michel Piola and Stephane Schaffter.
The first route that was freed (using fixed lines to return to a base each night), in 1988, was the Yugoslav Route by German team Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich and Hartmut Munchenbach.
Another notable route is Eternal Flame (named after a Bangles song), first climbed on 20 September 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Milan Sykora and Christoph Stiegler. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower, and was climbed almost entirely free. These climbs inaugurated an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude peaks.
The first female ascent, on 6 September 1990, was achieved in free climbing style, again on the Yugoslav Route, by Catherine Destivelle (with Jeff Lowe, and David Breashears filming).
|1||Arrive Islamabad international airport and transfer to Hotel||HOTEL|
|2||Fly to Skardu via PK451 or Drive from Islamabad - Chilas ( Flight subject to weather condition).||HOTEL|
|3||Skardu sightseeing or Drive from Chilas - Skardu||HOTEL|
|4||Skardu briefing in Ministry of tourism & preparation of expedition with staff||HOTEL|
|5||Drive from Skardu - Askoli||CAMPING|
|6||Trek from Askoli - Jhola||CAMPING|
|7||Trek from Jhola - Paju||CAMPING|
|8||Trek from Paju - Trango tower base camp||CAMPING|
|9||CLIMBING PERIOD (26 DAYS)||CAMPING|
|34||Trek down from Trango base camp - Bardumal||CAMPING|
|35||Trek down from Bardumal - Askoli||CAMPING|
|36||Drive from Askoli - Skardu||HOTEL|
|37||Skardu de- briefing & final fare well dinner||HOTEL|
|38||Fly to Islamabad or Drive from Skardu - Chilas ( Flight totally subject to weather.||HOTEL|
|39||Islamabad sightseeing or Drive from Chilas - Islamabad||HOTEL|
|40||Fly out to your own destination (END OF OUR SERVICES)||FLY OUT|
1. All Airport pick and drop
2. Both ways air fare between Islamabad – Skardu – Islamabad.
3. Transportation briefing, debriefing and sightseeing.
4. Transportation between Skardu – Askoli – - Skardu
5. Three nights’ Accommodation, twin bed room in Islamabad (bed & breakfast)
6. Three nights in Skardu Hotel with full board.
7. Two nights in Chilas Hotel with full board.
8. Local staff Wages, insurance, food and equipment.
9. Low porters to carry expedition and trekking equipment, foods.
10. Way up 75kg each climbing members.
11. Way down 50kg each climbing members.
12. All trekking and base camp foods.
13. Comfortable members tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, office tent, toilet tent, table, chairs & kitchen utensils.
14. Assistance for Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.
15. All Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing fee.
16. Low Porters Equipment’s.
17. Documentation & climbing permit
18. CKNP west management fee
19. Royalty fee and additional member fee
20. Liaison officer Kit allowance, food, flight fare.
21. Heating systems at base camp.
22. Electric Generator / Solar system at base camp.
1. Member international flight tickets
2. Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not use, it is now US$15000/-
3. Members any climbing gears
4. Member personal insurance
5. High altitude tent
6. High altitude food
7. High altitude porter
8. Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
9. Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
10. Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipments)
11. EPI gas and oxygen cylinder
12. Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if members stay more days at Base Camp) then members will be pay according to the numbers of days basses.
13. Trekking members and climbing member will come together. If any/some member split during the period then there extra expenses will be charged according to normal price
We are quoting here some simple gear list. which shall need to start rock climbing.
|4||CHALK BAG & CHALK|
|11||MID WEIGHT FLEECE JACKET |
|13||WIND PROOF PANTS|
|15||RUNNING SHOES (LIGHT HIKING BOOT)|
|18||SUN BLOCK & LIP BALM|