Eric Shipton called the Hunza vallay "the ultimate manifestation of mountain grandeur". Rakaposhi is valley's most famous peak. The huge massif dominates the skyline for a vast stretches of the Karakoram highway, first seen North of Aliabad yet still visible as far south as Gilgit. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh range which forms the south-western corner of the Karakoram and is part of the Lesser Karakoram. The mountain is extremely broad measuring almost 20km from East to West. It is the only peak on Earth that drops directly, uninterrupted, for almost 6000m from the summit to the base. Besides the highest peak of the Rakaposhi massif is Rakaposhi East (7010m). The peak also holds significant value to Geologists as it is the prow of the Eurasian land mass with Nanga Parbat representing the prow of the Indian land mass..
After six failed expeditions the peak was first climbed by a "British-Pakistani forces Himalayan Expedition" in 1958 via the SW Spur. In reality this was a British expedition aided by the help of all available high-altitude porters in the Hunza region. Six camps were required to get within range of the summit and climbing was impeded by incessant snowfalls, avalanches and blizzards. On summit day a violent blizzard was blowing, half-flattening Captain Michael Banks and Lieutenant Tom Patey's tiny two man tent and driving drifting snow high into the air. Despite the severe conditions Banks and Patey, two of the seven climbers in the expedition made a bid for the summit, thirty-six days after setting up base camp. In poor conditions both reached the summit five hours later without oxygen. The cold weather had taken its effect though. Banks had frost-bitten feet whilst Patey had frost-bitten hands but fortunately it was not severe. Not surprisingly they did not linger and descended quickly back to their tent and returned to base camp three days later. It was not until 1979 that the mountain was again climbed. To date there have been eight ascents via three routes with all climbing done in a siege style bar one (Canadian team, North Ridge, 1984).
|1||Arrive Islamabad international airport & Transfer to Hotel||HOTEL|
|2||Briefing in Alpine club of Pakistan rest of day sightseeing to twin city Rawalpindi||HOTEL|
|3||Fly to Gilgit via PK-607 Or Drive from Islamabad - Chila though KKH/ Babusar top Nanran valley||HOTEL|
|4||Drive from Gilgit - Juglot village or Drive from Gilgit to Juglot village||CAMPING|
|5||Trek from Juglot village - Darakash - Rakaposhi Base camp||CAMPING|
|6||CLIMBING PERIOD (35 DAYS)||CAMPING|
|41||Trek down from Rakaposhi- Juglot village||CAMPING|
|42||Drive from Juglot - Gilgit||HOTEL|
|43||Fly to Islamabad via PK 608 OR Drive from Gilgit - Islamabad via Naran valley / KKH||HOTEL|
|44||Islamabad de-briefing and final farewell dinner||HOTEL|
|45||Onward to your own Destination (END OF OUR SERVICES).||FLY OUT|
1. All Airport pick and drop
2. Both ways air fare between Islamabad – Gilgit – Islamabad.
3. Transportation briefing, debriefing and sightseeing.
4. Transportation between Islamabad – chilas – Juglot - Gilgit
5. Three nights’ Accommodation, twin bed room in Islamabad (bed & breakfast)
6. Two nights in Gilgit Hotel with full board.
7. Two nights in Chilas Hotel with full board.
8. Local staff Wages, insurance, food and equipment.
9. Low porters to carry expedition and trekking equipment, foods.
10. Way up 75kg each climbing members.
11. Way down 50kg each climbing members.
12. All trekking and base camp foods.
13. Comfortable members tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, office tent,toilet tent, table, chairs & kitchen utensils.
14. Assistance for Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.
15. All Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing fee.
16. Low Porters Equipment’s.
17. Documentation & climbing permit
18. Royalty fee and additional member fee
1. Member international flight tickets
2. Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not use, it is now US$15000/-
3. Members any climbing gears
4. Member personal insurance
5. High altitude tent
6. High altitude food
7. High altitude porter
8. Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
9. Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
10. Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipments)
11. EPI gas and oxygen cylinder
12. Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if members stay more days at Base Camp) then members will be pay according to the numbers of days basses.
13. Trekking members and climbing member will come together. If any/some member split during the period then there extra expenses will be charged according to normal price
|1||LINER GLOVES||1 PAIR|
|2||FLEECE OR WOOL MITTENS||1 PAIR|
|3||GORE-TEX OR SIMILAR OVER MITTS||1 PAIR|
|4||SKI GLOVES||1 PAIR|
|5||LIGHT-WEIGHT SOCKS ||2 PAIRS|
|6|| HEAVY-WEIGHT SOCKS||2 PAIRS|
|7||HAT OR CAP FOR THE SUN ||1 PIECE|
|8||FLEECE HAT OR BALACLAVA ||1 PIECE|
|9||POLYPROPYLENE TOPS ||2 PAIRS|
|10||LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS ||2 PAIRS|
|11||FLEECE JACKET ||1 PIECE|
|12||WINDPROOF GORE-TEX OR SIMILAR PARKA ||1 PIECE|
|13||DOWN JACKET||1 PIECE|
|14||LIGHT HIKING PANTS ||1 PIECE|
|15||FLEECE PANTS ||1 PIECE|
|16||WINDPROOF GORE-TEX OR SIMILAR PANTS ||1 PAIR|
|17||SYNTHETIC UNDERWEAR TOPS AND BOTTOMS ||2 PAIRS|
|18||GLACIER GLASSES OR EQUIVALENT ||1 PIECE|
|19||SKI GOGGLES||1 PIECE|
|20||PLASTIC MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS||1 PAIR|
|21||TREKKING BOOTS||1 PAIR|
|22||GAITERS OR SUPER GAITERS ||1 PAIR|
|23||REUSABLE HAND WARMERS||1 PACK|
|24||SANDALS OR TEVAS ||1 PAIR|
|25||PERSONAL HYGIENE AND FIRST AID KITS||1 PIECE|
|26||POCKET KNIFE||1 PIECE|
|27||BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP||6 PAIRS|
|28||TRAVEL LOG AND PEN||2 PIECE|
|29||CAMERA, FILM, ETC||1 SET|
|30||DRY QUICK TOWEL||1 PIECE|
|31||SUN BLOCK ||1 PIECE|
|32||ICE AXE OR PILOT ||1 PIECE|
|33|| CRAMPONS ||1 PAIR|
|34|| HEADLAMP WITH SPARE BULB AND BATTERIES ||1 PIECE|
|35|| SLEEPING BAG (-20°C) ||1 PIECE|
|36||THERMAREST OR SLEEPING MAT ||1 PIECE|
|37|| SKI OR HIKING POLES||1 PAIR|
|38||NALGENE TYPE WIDE MOUTH BOTTLE||1 PIECE|
|40||PEE BOTTLE||1 PIECE|