WELCOME TO SUMMIT KARAKORAM

Mountaineering

RAKAPOSHI EXPEDITION

RAKAPOSHI (7788M) EXPEDITION 

Eric Shipton called the Hunza vallay "the ultimate manifestation of mountain grandeur". Rakaposhi is valley's most famous peak. The huge massif dominates the skyline for a vast stretches of the Karakoram highway, first seen North of Aliabad yet still visible as far south as Gilgit. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh range which forms the south-western corner of the Karakoram and is part of the Lesser Karakoram. The mountain is extremely broad measuring almost 20km from East to West. It is the only peak on Earth that drops directly, uninterrupted, for almost 6000m from the summit to the base. Besides the highest peak of the Rakaposhi massif is Rakaposhi East (7010m). The peak also holds significant value to Geologists as it is the prow of the Eurasian land mass with Nanga Parbat representing the prow of the Indian land mass..

After six failed expeditions the peak was first climbed by a "British-Pakistani forces Himalayan Expedition" in 1958 via the SW Spur. In reality this was a British expedition aided by the help of all available high-altitude porters in the Hunza region. Six camps were required to get within range of the summit and climbing was impeded by incessant snowfalls, avalanches and blizzards. On summit day a violent blizzard was blowing, half-flattening Captain Michael Banks and Lieutenant Tom Patey's tiny two man tent and driving drifting snow high into the air. Despite the severe conditions Banks and Patey, two of the seven climbers in the expedition made a bid for the summit, thirty-six days after setting up base camp. In poor conditions both reached the summit five hours later without oxygen. The cold weather had taken its effect though. Banks had frost-bitten feet whilst Patey had frost-bitten hands but fortunately it was not severe. Not surprisingly they did not linger and descended quickly back to their tent and returned to base camp three days later. It was not until 1979 that the mountain was again climbed. To date there have been eight ascents via three routes with all climbing done in a siege style bar one (Canadian team, North Ridge, 1984).


TRIP ITINERARY:

DAYSDESTINATIONRESIDENCE
1Arrive Islamabad international airport & Transfer to HotelHOTEL
2Briefing in Alpine club of Pakistan rest of day sightseeing to twin city RawalpindiHOTEL
3Fly to Gilgit via PK-607 Or Drive from Islamabad - Chila though KKH/ Babusar top Nanran valleyHOTEL
4Drive from Gilgit - Juglot village or Drive from Gilgit to Juglot villageCAMPING
5Trek from Juglot village - Darakash - Rakaposhi Base campCAMPING
6CLIMBING PERIOD (35 DAYS)CAMPING
41Trek down from Rakaposhi- Juglot villageCAMPING
42Drive from Juglot - GilgitHOTEL
43Fly to Islamabad via PK 608 OR Drive from Gilgit - Islamabad via Naran valley / KKHHOTEL
44Islamabad de-briefing and final farewell dinnerHOTEL
45Onward to your own Destination (END OF OUR SERVICES). FLY OUT


SERVICES INCLUDED

1. All Airport pick and drop

2. Both ways air fare between Islamabad – Gilgit – Islamabad.

3. Transportation briefing, debriefing and sightseeing.

4. Transportation between Islamabad  – chilas – Juglot - Gilgit

5. Three nights’ Accommodation, twin bed room in Islamabad (bed & breakfast)

6. Two nights in Gilgit Hotel with full board.

7. Two nights in Chilas Hotel with full board.

8. Local staff Wages, insurance, food and equipment.

9. Low porters to carry expedition and trekking equipment, foods.

10. Way up 75kg each climbing members.

11. Way down 50kg each climbing members.

12. All trekking and base camp foods.

13. Comfortable members tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, office tent,toilet tent,  table, chairs & kitchen utensils.

14. Assistance for Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.

15. All Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing fee.

16. Low Porters Equipment’s.

17. Documentation & climbing permit 

18. Royalty fee and additional member fee

SERVICES NOT INCLUDED

1. Member international flight tickets 

2. Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not use, it is now US$15000/- 

3. Members any climbing gears 

4. Member personal insurance 

5. High altitude tent

6. High altitude food

7. High altitude porter

8. Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks, 

9. Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature

10. Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipments) 

11. EPI gas and oxygen cylinder 

12. Any unforeseen expenses (just like road block extra hotel stay or if members stay more days at Base Camp) then members will be pay according to the numbers of days basses. 

13. Trekking members and climbing member will come together. If any/some member split during the period then there extra expenses will be charged according to normal price


PEAK CLIMBING GEAR LIST:

S.NO
DESCRIPTION 
QUANTITY 
1LINER GLOVES1 PAIR
2 FLEECE OR WOOL MITTENS1 PAIR
3GORE-TEX OR SIMILAR OVER MITTS1 PAIR
4SKI GLOVES1 PAIR
5LIGHT-WEIGHT SOCKS 
2 PAIRS
6 HEAVY-WEIGHT SOCKS
2 PAIRS
7HAT OR CAP FOR THE SUN 
1 PIECE
8FLEECE HAT OR BALACLAVA 
1 PIECE
9POLYPROPYLENE TOPS 
2 PAIRS
10LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS 
2 PAIRS
11FLEECE JACKET 
1 PIECE
12WINDPROOF GORE-TEX OR SIMILAR PARKA 
1 PIECE
13DOWN JACKET1 PIECE
14LIGHT HIKING PANTS 
1 PIECE
15FLEECE PANTS 
1 PIECE
16WINDPROOF GORE-TEX OR SIMILAR PANTS 
1 PAIR
17SYNTHETIC UNDERWEAR TOPS AND BOTTOMS 
2 PAIRS
18GLACIER GLASSES OR EQUIVALENT 
1 PIECE
19SKI GOGGLES
1 PIECE
20PLASTIC MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS
1 PAIR
21TREKKING BOOTS
1 PAIR
22GAITERS OR SUPER GAITERS 
1 PAIR
23REUSABLE HAND WARMERS
1 PACK
24SANDALS OR TEVAS 
1 PAIR
25PERSONAL HYGIENE AND FIRST AID KITS
1 PIECE
26POCKET KNIFE
1 PIECE
27BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP
6 PAIRS
28TRAVEL LOG AND PEN
2 PIECE
29CAMERA, FILM, ETC
1 SET
30DRY QUICK TOWEL 1 PIECE
31SUN BLOCK 
1 PIECE
32ICE AXE OR PILOT 
1 PIECE
33 CRAMPONS 
1 PAIR
34 HEADLAMP WITH SPARE BULB AND BATTERIES 
1 PIECE
35 SLEEPING BAG (-20°C) 
1 PIECE
36THERMAREST OR SLEEPING MAT 
1 PIECE
37 SKI OR HIKING POLES
1 PAIR
38NALGENE TYPE WIDE MOUTH BOTTLE
1 PIECE
39THERMOS
1 PIECE
40PEE BOTTLE1 PIECE


Whatsapp